I'm just back from a weekend of camping with Miss Maggie and Wife Whisperer. I can hardly stand to be gone with nothing creative to do so I brought along a little project that I wanted to share with you. While I don't usually have time for many crafty things, I like to indulge, this time of year. Some of you may know from my blog, I'm extremely, and unreasonably, phobic when it comes to spiders. But, I thought these things were so danged cute! Just a little fun fluff for you...happy halloween!
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This is a post that I previously published on the Objects and Elements blog and thought you might enjoy here:
Here's the scenario: You're in your studio, working away in a creative fugue. The piece you're creating is completely inspired and everything is going smoothly until you decide to add a string of wire wrapped pearls to the piece. The pearls are lovely but, darn!...those tiny holes are way to small for the gauge of wire you want to use. Not to worry...grab your electric bead reamer and the problem is easily solved.
The electric bead reamer is one of those tools that, at first glance, you may think is not absolutely necessary for your studio but, I promise you, you will use it...a lot! This tool is not a drill, so you won't be creating a hole where there was none but it's a must-have for beads that are drilled too small or holes that have been clogged. It's especially handy for enlarging the holes in pearls, which are always drilled very small. The diamond coated bit works easily and quickly. It's very important when using the electric reamer to work under water. I know this sounds scary...water and electricity...but it's necessary in order to keep the bead and bit cool and to contain those tiny flying particles that can be toxic.
I use a shallow plastic container and fill it with an inch or less of water; just enough to cover the bead I'll be reaming. You won't be immersing the motor of the reamer but just the tip. I repeat: do not immerse the motor!
I have a dedicated pair of small, inexpensive pliers that I use for reaming. I've used the very high tech method of wrapping the jaws in masking tape to prevent my beads from being scratched. I'm sure there are fancier ways of holding your bead but, this is my quick fix. As you can see from the photo above, there isn't much water in the container. Insert the tip of the reamer into the bead before turning on the power. It may be easier to hold the bead against the side of the container so that it doesn't wiggle and spin. I usually ream through one side of the bead, flip it, and do the other side.
You'll get a considerably larger hole (bead on the left) by using the reamer and your choices in wire gauge won't be limited any longer!
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photo and charm by Diane Cook
I'm offering a couple of my tutorials for purchase in my Etsy shop. One of them is my wire bird's nest tutorial. You may remember first seeing this little charm published in the second edition of Stampington's Belle Armoire Jewelry back in 2007.
Although there was a brief how-to, I haven't seen a full tutorial on how to make these nests so thought I would offer one.
The other is for my wire wrapped link tutorial which was featured in Belle Armoire Jewelry, winter 2008. I also posted this tutorial on my blog for awhile but, if you missed either of those, you can pick it up on etsy. Here's an example of my work using the wrapped link technique...
...and and an example using the wire nest charm combined with the link technique (the tutorial includes a brief description of the leaves but not step by step instructions):
A brief word about my tutorials: If you purchase one, I'll email it to you in a pdf format. You can see more about that in my etsy description. I offer these tutorials a few at a time. If you go to my etsy shop and don't see the one you want there, please email me or convo me through etsy and I'll get one into the shop for you.
These tutorials have been made from jewelry of my own original design. They're not techniques I learned in a class or from a book. I ask, ever so politely and with the sincerest of warm fuzziness, that you please don't duplicate, share or teach them. Having said that, I want you to use the techniques you learn and...please....don't feel the need to give me credit! I'm just not concerned about that! My thoughts on this are; if I teach you how to make something, I don't want you to feel inhibited about using it. Be creative and expand on my techniques. Make your nests and links...incorporate them into your very own jewelry designs and other projects...sell them or give them as gifts...have fun with them. I hope you enjoy the tutorials!
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Inquiring minds want to know...so, I've decided to divulge one of my deepest, darkest jewelry making secrets: where to get steel wire. It's really not a secret at all but you may be having a hard time finding it at your local craft store. That's because most craft and bead stores don't typically carry it. I'm very fond of using dark (or black) annealed steel wire in many of my jewelry designs.
That's what you're looking for if you want to use this type of wire--dark annealed steel wire. Don't get the galvanized or the stainless steel...they don't have the same look.
The smaller gauges typically come in small packages of 50 foot rolls. I work most commonly with the 28 gauge, 24 gauge and the 20 gauge (the 19 gauge will work but I like the 20). Occasionally, I use a larger gauge like the 18 gauge, depending on what I'm making. In case you're thinking "but Deryn, 18 is smaller than 28!" Not so in the world of wire. Remember, the smaller the gauge number, the larger the diameter of the wire.
The larger gauges come on spools like this one. For some reason, this wire can be hard to find, unless your ordering it for industrial use. Ace Hardware used to carry it on their online site but it seems they don't anymore.. My local Ace hardware carries these gauges and I've asked them to keep them in stock after a big scare when they informed me they wouldn't be carrying the 24 gauge anymore. They kindly got right on the computer and ordered it, just for me. So, if you don't see it in your local store, ask them if they can order it. Also, the larger hardware stores usually carry the larger 16 gauge wire but not the smaller gauges. Sometimes the larger gauges are called re-bar wire or mechanic's wire. A few online sources: Fundametals and Etsy. Just plug it into the Etsy search bar.
Secret revealed...happy wire twising!
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I have a passion for beautiful earrings. I love to wear them and I love to make them. Because I also crave variety, I've learned to make my own ear wires. I never buy ear wires for my handmade earrings and I don't think you should either. Ear wires are very simple and quick to make and, creating your own will give you much more versatility when it comes to shape and size.
First, a quick lesson in measuring wire gauge. What you're looking at above is called a wire gauge. It's used to help you determine the gauge, or thickness, of your wire. I always use sterling for ear wires. Many people are allergic to other metals but most tolerate sterling well. Also, I always use 20 gauge wire, because that's what makes your earlobes do the happy dance. Heavier gauges are too heavy and smaller gauges aren't sturdy enough. So, get your wire gauge and I'll show you how it works.
Insert your wire into the slot that corresponds with the size wire you think you have. Or, I should say, you TRY to insert your wire into the slot. If the wire goes in, move to the next slot. When the wire won't go into the slot, that means you've found your gauge. It's that simple. The hole behind the slot is there so that, once your wire is inserted, you can easily pull it out without marring the wire.
Step 1: Measure the wire and trim each end so it's flush...nice and flat. I use cheap, diagonal cutters from the hobby store. Trim the very end of your wire, making sure to have the flat back of your cutters facing the long part of the wire. This will result in a flat cut on the end of the wire you're going to use.
Step 2: Lay your wire against a ruler (oscillating dinosaurs optional) and cut it to 2 1/2 inches, again, making sure the cutters are facing the proper direction for you to get another flat end on the piece of wire you'll be using. You can cut your wires any length you like depending on the type of earwire you're making but I find 2 inches to be the length I use most.
Use the length of wire you just cut as a measure for cutting your second length. That way, both pieces will be the same.
Make sure you're getting those ends flush cut.
Step 3: Use a nice chasing hammer to gently pound the very end of your cut wires. You'll need to do this on a bench block. I use a bench pillow under my block to soften the sound.
Step 4: Once you have a small paddle on the end of your wire, use your small, round nose pliers to bend a little loop in the end. Place the wire between the jaws of your pliers (actually, you should place the wire closer to the center of the pliers than you see in this photo) with just a tiny bit of the wire sticking up out of the top. (Objects and Elements carries pliers including a terrific set of Revere pliers).
Give the wire a firm, but gentle, twist, turning your wrist forward. This smooth action on your part should form a nice loop. As you're turning the wire, your left thumb should be supporting the wire directly behind where you're making the loop. I couldn't show this in the picture because my left hand was taking the picture!
Above, is what your wire should now look like.
Step 5: Place your wire into the jaws of a set of bailing pliers with the little loop facing you and the larger barrel of the plier away from you. The size of plier you use determines the size of the large loop of your ear wire. You can also use the back of a set of extra long round nose pliers for this step or a mandrel such as a knitting needle or ink pen.
Roll the wire around the barrel, again, with a smooth motion of your wrist. You'll be rolling away from your body.
Keep rolling until you get a complete circle around the barrel. Slide the wire off the end of the pliers.
Step 6: Using your flat nose pliers, grasp the wire right about the point where it criss-crosses. Gently bend the wire away from the loop.
Step 7: Use your chasing hammer and place the ear wire just on the edge of the bench block. Lightly hammer the circle of the ear wire right above the tiny loop. This will flatten the outer circle of your ear wire a little bit and give it a pretty bit-o-flash. Don't hammer the tiny loop and don't hammer the top of the large loop. Tip: only put the part of the wire you want to hammer onto the bench block. Definitely do not put your fingers onto the block. Anything that is placed on the block is fair game to be hammered!
Step 8: Place the end of your ear wire into the jaws of your flat nose pliers, lining up the end of the wire so that it is flush with the other side of the jaws. Gently bend the wire end just a little bit. Or, you can leave it straight if you like. They're YOUR ear wires. You can make them the way YOU like them!
A word about hammers: What you see here, from left to right, is a small part of my hammer collection. The one on the left is a rawhide mallet. Center, is a combination nylon/rubber head hammer. Far right is my fave, the soft-face, deadblow hammer. It has little beads or bb's or corn kernels or something inside that shake when I hammer and give the hammer weight. These hammers are used for hardening your wire. The materials on the faces of these hammers will stiffen the wire without marring it. Any of these hammers will do.
Step 9: Harden the earwires by gently but firmly hammering. This will stiffen up your ear wires so they don't bend out of shape at the slightest provocation. Hammer like this all up and down the ear wire, being careful to avoid that pesky, little loop again.
Step 10: This last step is extremely important. What you see in the pic above is a tool called a bur cup (also known as a cup bur or wire rounder. This tool is indispensable in creating comfortable, snag-free ear wires. Also, I have a small piece of 0000 steel wool that's been balled up between my palms.
Grasp the earwire firmly and insert the end of it into the bur cup. Hold the ear wire in the cup and rotate the cup 25-30 times. This will knock off those nasty rough spots that can cause unhappy earlobes.
When your finished with the bur cup, insert the ear wire into the ball of steel wool and squeeze while rotating the wire around; back and forth, up and down. This polishes off any remaining, stubborn snags.
Yes! NOW you're finished. And just look at those lovely earwires. Your mother will be so proud! And, if you're excited about these earwires just look what you else you can do:
These are just a few of the fun shapes you can create. You'll never go back to store bought again!
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Look at this pile! Do I really need this many tools for making jewelry? Um...yeah. And I have even more...much more (don't tell WW). These are just my faves. But, all have been eclipsed today by the glorious Mazbot bailing plier. Swoon! I tell you, this tool is so great, I actually kissed it! Yes, I know it's weird but, if you've ever made jump rings by hand, you'll know what I'm talking about. This plier is used in place of a mandrel and turning jump rings with this baby is a piece of cake. I know there are lots of other fancy jump ring making tools on the market but, if you're going to make them the good old-fashioned way, bailing pliers are the way to go. I couldn't find a link for the Mazbot brand but I did find another link for you if you're interested in swooning or slobbering over your own pair.
Just in case you've never twisted your own jump rings, I thought I'd post a little jump ring tutorial for your viewing pleasure, using my new, spectacular tool. I did my best with the pics but it's not easy trying to work with my right hand and take a photo with my left.
I'm using pretty heavy, 18 gauge steel wire for these jump rings. I've started using these cheap flush cutters and they work great. I get a nice, flat cut, even on the heavy gauges. When they wear out, I'll run to the craft store and get myself a brand new pair! Before you start bending, trim both ends of your wire flat.
This is where the amazing Mazbot (or other brand) pliers come in handy. Place your wire inside the pliers with the wire end flush with the plier barrels.
See? Nice and flush.
Now, hold the wire in your left hand and start to turn the pliers, keeping the wire tight up against the barrel with your thumb. I left my thumb out of the pics so you can see better. These pliers have two different size barrels, one 9mm and one 7mm, so you can make two different size jump rings. I'm using the 7mm. There is also a 4mm/5mm size plier.
Continue to turn the pliers while holding the wire firmly with your thumb. You'll have to open and close the jaws of the pliers as you turn them around.
Almost done turning... Now, you can slide the wire off the pliers and you'll have a nice, neat coil.
Time to pull your nice coil apart. Using chain nose pliers on both ends, gently pull the coil apart slightly.
Using the cheapie flush cutters, cut off the tail of the coil. Make sure your cutters have the flat side (the back side) facing the coil and not the tail.
Ok, this picture isn't the greatest but...now you'll cut your first ring. Come in with the cutters from the side, keeping the flat (back) edge of the cutters away from the cut you just made. The back edge of the cutters is where you get the flush cut so, on your jump ring, you want two flat edges to match up. See? Line up the back edge of the cutters with the edge of the coil above and snip. You'll get more power from your cutters if you cut toward the back of the blade so try to scoot your pliers right in between the coils.
Congratulations! You have your first jump ring! Continue cutting the rest of your rings, making sure you flip your pliers so you're getting a flat edge on both sides of your rings. You'll have to trim a tiny bit off the coil after each ring is released in order to keep that flat edge.
Now, place your two pair of chain nose pliers on either side of the ring. Wiggle the ring back and forth, grinding the cut surfaces against each other and closing the ring. If you did a good job cutting, the edges should be nice and flush against each other and your ring should be nice and round.
Like this!
Next step is to give it a whack with the hammer. This is really fun as long as no fingers are touching the anvil. You can flatten your rings a lot or a little...it's up to you which look you want. Hammering hardens the metal and gives you a nice stiff ring that won't open easily.
If you don't want your rings flattened at all, use a rubber mallet, rawhide mallet or nylon hammer. I use this nifty, small, deadblow hammer. It hardens the metal without marring it.
I sand my pieces with a foam sanding block, fine grade, then go over them with a buffing stick. The buffing sticks are for manicures but they work great on steel wire jewelry.
So, you're done! You've made one jump ring. Wasn't that fun?
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